Miles: 29.8 miles (957.5-987.3)
The tracks were getting even fresher as I headed off at 4:30am. It was another crystal clear morning and I couldn't believe today was the day I'd be getting off trail for nearly two weeks. But, that was only after I walked nearly 30 miles, including ending the day at over 12,000 feet, where there was bound to be snow. I hiked quickly before dawn to stay warm, knowing the morning sun would come soon to enliven my fingers and toes, which still weren't quite awake and getting the full benefit of warm blood flowing through their tiny veins.
Crossing a soggy meadow after about six miles I ran into a few tents. At first I thought they were large rocks with bright orange lichen on them, and it was only when I got within a few hundred feet that I realized my mistake. It's funny what your brain can fool you into thinking - especially in the morning when more blood is going to the legs than the head. In any case, my suspicion was confirmed, I caught up to them this morning!
I saw two tents that looked just like the one Restless had, but when I called for Restless a few times, there was no answer. I retraced my steps to the first green tarptent and then a woman's voice came out inquiring who was there. She popped her head out and I realized I'd never seen her in my life. She was a thru-hiker, one of the 'Warrior Hikers', who are veterans that get sponsored to hike the trail. With her was Farmer and Mountain Spice. Farmer was also a warrior hiker who'd I'd never met and he seemed very knowledgeable about the area. We looked at far off peaks and he named them one by one.
Mountain Spice was one of the first people I met on the trail, along with Karma and Restless at the kickoff party in Silver City. We exchanged stories and I learned they'd all taken the Creede cutoff. The snow conditions had actually worsened somewhat because the melting snow made for unstable conditions and potentially dangerous avalanches. It turned out Karma and I might have hit it at the perfect time - though there was still quite a bit of avalanche danger when we hiked it as well.
They gave me some updates about the trail ahead, including that there was quite a bit of snow near Monarch Pass. I figured it couldn't be anything compared to what I'd already faced. I said my goodbyes and said I'd probably see them all up trail since I was taking some time off.
I saw two tents that looked just like the one Restless had, but when I called for Restless a few times, there was no answer. I retraced my steps to the first green tarptent and then a woman's voice came out inquiring who was there. She popped her head out and I realized I'd never seen her in my life. She was a thru-hiker, one of the 'Warrior Hikers', who are veterans that get sponsored to hike the trail. With her was Farmer and Mountain Spice. Farmer was also a warrior hiker who'd I'd never met and he seemed very knowledgeable about the area. We looked at far off peaks and he named them one by one.
Mountain Spice was one of the first people I met on the trail, along with Karma and Restless at the kickoff party in Silver City. We exchanged stories and I learned they'd all taken the Creede cutoff. The snow conditions had actually worsened somewhat because the melting snow made for unstable conditions and potentially dangerous avalanches. It turned out Karma and I might have hit it at the perfect time - though there was still quite a bit of avalanche danger when we hiked it as well.
They gave me some updates about the trail ahead, including that there was quite a bit of snow near Monarch Pass. I figured it couldn't be anything compared to what I'd already faced. I said my goodbyes and said I'd probably see them all up trail since I was taking some time off.
I had view of Mt Antora as I trekked northward, tracking Restless and whoever else was ahead of me. I kept thinking how strange it was that I'd be in Omaha tomorrow. I kept pushing and hit pretty heavy snow on the north side of the hills. The snowshoes helped some, but half the time I still ended up post-holing up to my knees. I just tried to keep moving, knowing I'd be out soon.
I ran into a runner and his friend near Marshall Pass and they told me Shira, who I'd last seen in Lake City, was just up ahead about two hours, but moving fast. I figured I probably wouldn't catch her in the next ten miles, but it was comforting knowing someone was just ahead. One of the guys gave me an orange and I ate the rest of my tuna and tortillas preparing to make the final ten mile push towards Monarch Pass.
The first few miles up were no problem - snow-free and a pretty gentle grade, it was pretty easy walking - but then the snow patches started filling back in and it the clouds started to darken ominously. I tried to move faster, but the faster I moved the more I postholed, losing precious energy digging myself with each step.
I reached treeline and could see what lay ahead - a snowy trek along the divide with cornices dotting the route, precariously hanging on to the crest - the last thing I wanted to see for the last five miles. Not to mention that the wind was picking up and I was beginning to see lightning strikes off in the distance. I kept following the tracks in the snow, which sometimes was better than blazing my own path, and sometimes just made it easier to fall through. And then there was so much snow, and even more post-holing, up to my waist. It was so crushing to know how close I was to the road and my friends, but that I probably couldn't make more than a mile per hour in the snow.
I ran into a runner and his friend near Marshall Pass and they told me Shira, who I'd last seen in Lake City, was just up ahead about two hours, but moving fast. I figured I probably wouldn't catch her in the next ten miles, but it was comforting knowing someone was just ahead. One of the guys gave me an orange and I ate the rest of my tuna and tortillas preparing to make the final ten mile push towards Monarch Pass.
I reached treeline and could see what lay ahead - a snowy trek along the divide with cornices dotting the route, precariously hanging on to the crest - the last thing I wanted to see for the last five miles. Not to mention that the wind was picking up and I was beginning to see lightning strikes off in the distance. I kept following the tracks in the snow, which sometimes was better than blazing my own path, and sometimes just made it easier to fall through. And then there was so much snow, and even more post-holing, up to my waist. It was so crushing to know how close I was to the road and my friends, but that I probably couldn't make more than a mile per hour in the snow.
And then, of course, it started to rain. Hard. The rain and sleet whipped in sideways and stung my cheeks. I had to pull my cap down low in front of my face to avoid the ice from shooting into my eyes and blinding me for a few seconds at a time. I finally reached the crest and began to descend to Monarch. Wherever the snow had melted I broke into a run, or at least my best imitation of a run at that point in the day, hoping I wouldn't make Alex and Margi wait too long at Monarch Pass. It was already 5pm, when I said I'd meet them, and I still had two miles to go. After one last push through the snowy woods, I took my snowshoes off and hit a 4WD road and was able to jog down to the pass. Seeing the old-school gondola at Monarch, I knew I was close, but wish I'd just ridden it down.
I reached the door of the store and as I opened it, Alex was walking out. I was dripping like a wet dog who had spent all day out in the rain. I asked him to grab my package so I didn't make a mess of the store. Then I realized there was a snack bar and walked in anyways. I had no money so Alex bought me a coffee and nachos. They were so good. When we got in the car Alex said I smelled much worse than a soggy dog, and more like a dead one. Once we were all loaded up, we headed down to Buena Vista and I told them about the last few days of rain and snow. It was so good to be warm and inside their car, knowing I didn't have to go back there for at least ten days.
At the Eddy Line we split nachos and I had a huge salad with a calzone. I'm embarrased to say I couldn't finish the calzone, but did later that night. After that, we headed over to Mt. Princeton Hot Springs where we soaked for a few hours - the perfect end to a very long day. I slept the whole way back to Leadville.
I reached the door of the store and as I opened it, Alex was walking out. I was dripping like a wet dog who had spent all day out in the rain. I asked him to grab my package so I didn't make a mess of the store. Then I realized there was a snack bar and walked in anyways. I had no money so Alex bought me a coffee and nachos. They were so good. When we got in the car Alex said I smelled much worse than a soggy dog, and more like a dead one. Once we were all loaded up, we headed down to Buena Vista and I told them about the last few days of rain and snow. It was so good to be warm and inside their car, knowing I didn't have to go back there for at least ten days.
At the Eddy Line we split nachos and I had a huge salad with a calzone. I'm embarrased to say I couldn't finish the calzone, but did later that night. After that, we headed over to Mt. Princeton Hot Springs where we soaked for a few hours - the perfect end to a very long day. I slept the whole way back to Leadville.
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