Day 134: Piegan Pass and the Chalet

Mileage: 16.5 miles (2528.7-2545.2)

I had breakfast with my mom and the whole crew - the last time we'd all be together, but it was mostly the normal shenanigans. After pancakes, we said goodbye, and my mom gave me, Commando, and Malarky a ride up to the CDT where we'd finished the roadwalk. Our first test was up Piegan Pass, above 7,000 ft. It was slushy snow but really not bad compared to what we'd done the days previous. We ran into quite a few day hikers on the way up, passing them all at our blistering pace, leaving them wondering what the heck we were doing. I was a bit behind Malarky, and one guy said, "Are you with the guy ahead? Good luck catching him - he's running up the mountain!" I smiled and said, 'thanks' not even pausing for a breath.

On top of Piegan Pass, reached by a narrow trail once again clinging to the cliff, I spotted a family of Hoary Marmots, my first sighting of this species of portly high-mountain dwellers. At first, I mistook them for a group of coyotes or even thought one might be a wolverine, before I saw how chunky they were. They were bigger than their yellow-bellied cousins, but once I saw the whole group, there was little doubt they were Marmot kin. It was clearing a bit as we got higher but still a high ceiling, veiling the saw-toothed summits high above.

The way down wasn't bad either, again nothing like the days previous which were dangerous in spots of icy rock and deep snow. We admired the sheer black cliffs and the top of craggy divide, still shrouded in a cloud of mystery.  We saw lots of black bear prints on our way down to Josephine Lake and daring Mountain goats in a precarious spot on the cliffs above. Incredible waterfalls shotdown hundreds of feet from precipitous cliffs, hitting rocks and permanent snowfields below.

The rock had bands of red and green on a background of slate grey. The clouds lifted higher and higher but never fully burned off as the day went on.

It got greener and greener as we headed down the valley until we finally hit Swiftcurrent Lake and saw the Many Glacier Hotel. The lakes were enormous and different shades of green, turqouise, and blue, depending on where you looked. We finally reached the Ranger Station and got our permits for the next two days. We'd stay at Kootenai Lakes tomorrow and then reach Canada the next day. We were so close and have been promised a sunny day tomorrow. Tonight we have to stay in the front country campground though.

Unfortunately, the night didn't end here. An older lady with white hair standing straight up like Einstein was also staying at the walk-in site and turned out to be totally insane. She talked to herself most of the night in front of the campfire, murmuring some things too vulgar to repeat, but included using the N-word, calling George Bush a "white n-word", murmuring "kill all the children", and endlessly talking about Jackie Onassis and JFK. In between each rant and rave she'd hawk a giant lougie, almost sounding like she was loosing a bit of her lung with each hack.

Malarkey moved his tent in the middle of the night after she'd come up to his tent and said, "Commit suicide." She was by far the craziest person I'd ever met. And on top of that, horribly vulgar and racist. I didn't sleep until past midnight. I was ready to bear spray her if she got within five feet of my tent. So much for a restful night in the front country.

Day 133: To St. Mary and Slackpackin' back

Mileage: 24.5 miles (2499.2-2528.7)

I slept in a bit and kept the other two waiting this morning. My legs felt pretty tight and sore after the long day before. We saw quite a bit of Moose tracks and scat up and down the undulating green wooded hills. I was following Malarky when he suddenly stopped and pointed at a big brown figure in the distance. It was a Moose walking down the trail. He galloped off quickly after he spotted us, allowing us to continue. After what seemed like more than two miles we came down past the head of Red Eagle Lake where I was happy to find a pit toilet. We continued down the path until we finally started seeing day hikers, which signaled we were close. Day hikers were always a good sign. The clouds had subsided some but many of the tops of peaks were still clouded over.

We got to the trailhead and walked to the road, following St Mary Lake, and met my mom in town. We ate lunch in Park Cafe and then decided to get a room. Me, my mom, and our dog shared a room at the Red Eagle and had Malarky and Commando next door.

Commando and I got dropped by mom at the intersection of the CDT with the Going to the Sun road, since the official trail was closed. We figured we'd get the road walk out of the way, so we'd could just start fresh on trail tomorrow. We had pretty awesome views of the lower peaks along the lake before it clouded over when we got out of the car. It wasn't until driving up it that we realized how enormous St Mary lake was and that we'd have to walk along it for ten miles. A sign told us the lake was 299 ft deep, and I wondered if Lake Trout or other monsters lurked its depths.

The drizzle began spitting at us as we started our slackpack. We'd left our packs in the room and walked toward town, making it easier on ourselves and my mom, who'd only have to come get us at the road we'd walk in on, instead at the top. It was cold and windy, but at least the wind was at our backs.

 At this point we were set in keeping our continuous footpath from Mexico to Canada. Since we'd already come this far there was no reason to skip now, even if it was a dangerous roadwalk along a busy two-lane road without a shoulder. It was unfortunate because the trail we were supposed to be on was closed due to fire damage, though upon further inspection it really didn't look bad. We finished the walk by 5pm and my mom just happened to be there right as we rounded the corner to the visitor center.

My mom after she dropped us off at the Going to the Sun Road to hike down

After we cleaned up, we headed down to dinner and saw Sanjay, Tom, and Rafiki trying to hitch. We stopped and convinced them to just stay in St Mary and eat pizza with us. It was fun reconnecting with them and we shared stories from the last few days. We both had been through quite a bit of snow and had plenty to share. It was fun to see the guys one more time. After dinner we headed back to the hotel and headed for early bed.

Day 132: From Two Medicine and over Triple Divide Pass

Mileage: 29.5 miles (2469.7-2499.2)

We started hitching after deep fried huckleberry French toast at the diner. It took awhile but at least it was a blue sky day. We'd met our buddy Malarky from Northern Ireland the night before and he was heading out with me and Commando. We had decided to take an alternate route up Dawson Pass, which was supposed to be prettier. Unfortunately, by the time we got up there the blue sky had been conquered by the legions of clouds. And there was snow at 6,400', far below where we'd top out more than 1,000' higher.

We found sketch, deep steep snow and ice around Mt Morgan with bitter, strong winds howling in our faces. And we were seeing grizzly prints everywhere in snow. It felt like we were back in the San Juan's except now there were Grizzlies and I wasn't nearly as mentally prepared. The trail itself was only 18" wide in most places, so the snow covered it completely, making it not only nearly impossible to follow, but also quite treacherous.

Steep snow chutes funneled down to sheer cliffs hundreds of feet below and none of us had an ice axe or crampons. We took turns breaking trail, frequently stopping to warm our freezing hands. After a particularly scary section where I was breaking trail waist-deep in snow, we finally reached Pitakamin Pass and joined back with the CDT. We saw other parties headed up the way we came and were slightly annoyed that they were taking advantage of the trail we broke in all their winter gear, especially since they were day hikers, returning to somewhere dry and warm this evening.

We headed down and down from Pitakamin, and it felt like very long time before the snow finally disappeared. We took our first break of the day at snowline and all of our bodies ached after having a few days off and then pushing so hard.

Below the snow line, everything turned green and water rushed everywhere, down waterfalls, and through creeks, and bubbling up from underground springs. It was warm and pleasant, almost like the morning was just a horrible nightmare, back in the San Juan's in southern Colorado.

We ran into some day hikers before Triple Divide Pass, who had broken at least some of the way up to 7,500 ft. As we ascended the wind picked up but at least we were following tracks uphill, instead of breaking like earlier in the day. The trail clung to the side of the cliff as we looked down on the sprawling Grizzly Medicine Lake in the deep glacial valley below. Thin, braided waterfalls tumbled down the sheer cliffs across the valley and on top of the trail.

The clouds began to lift as we neared the pass and we ended up with some spectacular views from Triple Divide Peak, whose summit sent waters east to the Atlantic, west to the Pacific, and north to the Hudson Bay. We traced the rocky spine of the naked divide as it made it's way north, thankful we weren't tasked to walk on top of it sheer, icy backbone.

The cliffs were textured with a dusting of snow, revealing every contour and bend in the bands of granite. On our way down the north side there were no more tracks and the way was steep and full of snow. Though nothing as bad as traverse around Mt. Morgan earlier in the day, wading through hip deep snow.

Again, it took longer than it should have to get out of snow from Triple Divide, but we couldn't find a campsite anywhere - and our designated one was still miles away.  We hiked on in the dark, making noise as we went, to scare off any curious Grizzlies. Around nine, well after the sun had melted below the horizon, I saw a small flat-topped hill and suggested we camp there. We'd seen a lot of bear sign that day and I didn't want to run into any grizzlies at night. We setup camp in utter exhaustion and were in bed by 9:30.

Day 129, 130, and 131: Triple Zero in Kalispell

Mileage: Zero

Me and Commando got a hitch with a nice lady who took us to Columbia Falls outside Kalispell. After we crossed the divide at Mariah's Pass all of a sudden the barren landscape transformed into lush, deep green forest more remiscent of the Pacific Northwest than the barren plains we'd left behind. Towering spruce and fir trees dominated the landscape as the rains fell more generously on the western slope than from where we'd come.

Michael, my friend Cody's dad, picked us up at the coffee shop in Columbia Falls and took us back to their house a bit south. It was a beautiful house on about 20 acres of property, complete with a pond and horse pasture. Michael is in his sixties and one of those guys that can talk forever about one story or another - whether it's about hunting or traveling with his wife or kids, he always had an anecdote ready, and I was happy to listen. 

When we arrived he immediately offered beers and I ended up drinking plenty of beer with him and Casey over the weekend. He showed us his African animal collection on the wall complete with Oryx, Black Bear, and Deer. 

We went out and fed the fish in the pond, trying to scare off the osprey which was stealing his trout. The western slope of the Bob Marshall Wilderness lay to our east and we knew all this rain would open it back up. As it cleared up we saw the tops of the nearest peaks were all licked with snow. We laid around and ate a lot. I texted my buddy Cody telling him how good of cook his mom is and he responded: "She'll try and make you fat" Our breakfasts were awesome, including eggs, toast, and bacon and then fresh-baked banana bread the next day.

I watched the first Husker game and though they lost a heart breaker I was proud of how they played. Afterwards I played bumper pool with Michael as Casey had gone to hang out with another friend. We drank more beer and hot chocolate with schnapps. I fell asleep early that night, sinking into the soft bed.

The next day we went to a muscle car show and Karen and

Michael's friends came from Oregon. Good appeared out of nowhere and we all feasted for lunch. 

My mom came and picked me up with her friends Rebecca and Yes and our dog Cooper! We all drove to East Glacier and we had a nice dinner at Luna's. It was great to see my mom and dog, though it almost didn't feel real. I planned to meet my mom at St Mary's on Tuesday and I shared a room with Commando at Brownie's. His planning ahead was good and we both slept well.

Rebecca, Yes, and my mom in the back, me and Commando up front - a tight squeeze!

Sharing hot chocolate with mom.

Day 128: East Glacier to Two Medicine and Back

Mileage: 12 miles (2457.7-2469.7)

I slept in until 8am, with only the rustling of other hiker's packs and bag rousing me. I didn't want to move, but today was our best looking day for the next four, so we had to walk. Stabby, Rafiki, and I walked over to the Two Medicine diner for breakfast, each putting away a healthy plate of food and coffee full of cream. I had a stack of pancakes slathered in syrup and butter which was more than enough to fill me up.

Right before we left, Commando walked up and told us he wasn't going. The forecast for the next few days was bleak and he wanted to see Glacier when it was nicer, so he wouldn't go. I thought to myself it really wasn't a bad idea, and I wasn't in a rush, but at the same time I was all packed up and at least wanted to make the 12 miles to Two Medicine to see how it was.

I said goodbye to Commando and then headed off with the rest of the guys. We played more Contact as we hiked, teaching Malarky the rules as we went. It rained slightly, but really wasn't too bad. As we got higher and higher, we all appreciated being on trail for the first time in what seemed like forever.

Even in the clouds, the sheer topography of Glacier began to reveal itself. Rugged peaks whose tops were cutoff by the low ceiling, but sheer faces still visible below. Snow capped some of the high summits, foreboding of what lay ahead. I started feeling sharp pains in my left leg with every step and realized I had shin splints, probably from all the road walking in the last week. Downhill was especially painful, but I pushed on. I kept Banjo company, with his hurt ankle, and had a good time chatting with him about our hikes and the future beyond.

We admired the scenery together, especially the ancient Bristlecone Pines high on the northern slope. Their gnarled trunks and branches a testament to the weather they'd endured year after year, for hundreds of years. We looked down into the deep glacial-carved valley below, where Two Medicine Lake lay. I had resolved I'd stop at Two Medicine Lake and go back to East Glacier to wait out the weather. The more I thought about it, there was no reason to push on with my shin splints and with the weather forecast to be so cloudy and rainy the next few days.

I'd walked 2,500 miles to this park, I figured I shouldn't rush just so I could finish a few days early. Getting to the Two Medicine Ranger Station I informed the gang of my decision. I was sad to leave them, but it was the right thing for me. I got a hitch with a guy from the general store and met Commando back in East Glacier that night. We planned to hitch over to Kalispell and stay with my friend's parents for a few days to wait out the bad weather. We drank beer and reveled in being warm and dry, while our friends were surely miserable, wet, and cold.

Day 127: Finally to East Glacier

Mileage: 26 miles (2431.7-2457.7)

After camping under the bridge we walked the twelve miles into Browning, our first town on the reservation. It was known as dodgy and sketchy at night, where dogs roamed the streets during the day and anything could happen at night. I figured it really wasn't that bad and when we got there, I realized it was more sad than anything else.

It was more sad than anything - with all the businesses either boarded up or with metal bars guarding their windows and doors. At 10am lines were forming outside the liquor stores, with Blackfeet men looking withered beyond their years.

We stopped at the one diner in town and almost instantly realized we'd made a mistake. We were one of two parties in the diner and the only one, after the other group left, grumbling, "too slow!"

The place was clean enough, it was just that the waitress took about 15 minutes to take our order and then came back to retake it after 15 more minutes when the other guys arrived. I asked for water and she brought one for everybody except me. Then she forgot our coffees, didn't bring order at all when she brought the others, and then when I asked about it, told me another waitress was going to get mushrooms for my omelet at the store. I told her as politely as I could that I didn't care what kind of omelet they gave me, but please, just bring me some food.

Eventually, after about an hour, the food came, we inhaled it and then me and King David went to Taco John's to get a burrito for the road.

I was tired of waiting for everyone and everything so I pushed on. The headwinds were gusting at more than 50 mph, the strongest we'd faced in days. Commando almost died when an RV blew a tire and it almost hit him as he walked at 75 mph. We all dodged off the road, afraid for our lives, but luckly everyone was okay.  

Sanjay, King David, and I formed a line and broke the wind for each other, while the others pushed on ahead. Rain began to spit in our faces as we got closer to town. When we got to East Glacier, we were greeted by Banjo, who'd injured his ankle on the walk in and had to hitch. There were also a couple other hikers at the hostel, Toast and Lot who'd finished and Malarky, who'd been waiting for us.

We all had a big dinner at Serrano's Mexican restaurant, did laundry, and drank beers at the hostel. I fell asleep early with the lights on and the other guys still partying. We'd be leaving tomorrow and I needed rest.

Day 126: To Blackfoot Nation

Mileage: 28 miles (2403.7-2431.7)

We woke up to a wonderful sunrise and Sanjay loudly packing his bag. We were a funny crew breaking camp in the morning. Stabby, a quick-witted guy in his mid-30's with facial hair that put the rest of us to shame grunted as he got ready for the day. His beard basically connected up to his hairline and down to his neck and chest, making the rest of us seem like adolescents trying to grow our first 'stashe. 

Meanwhile, Sanjay, from Southern California, but whose family is of Indian descent was fidgeting with his things trying to get an early start. He's also in his mid-thirties, shorter, and has a big bushy beard that connects with his shaved head.

It was just a few miles to Dupuyer, but when we got there we found the whole town was closed on Tuesdays. We walked around town looking for water and finally found a spigot at the bed & breakfast. Sitting in front of the closed general store, two ladies walked up and got our story. It turned out they were our key to town. They got us all water and then called the guy who owned the General Store and got him to open it for us. I bought two Totino's pizzas for $3 each and we had beers at 9am. I guess we had nothing better to do walking the road. By 10am we finally left, full on beer, pizza, and chips and ready for another day walking the road.

We walked on and on along the desolate highway, entering Blackfoot Nation around noon. The Blackfeet were essentially Plains Indians, but many of their sacred places were in the high mountains of what is now Glacier National Park. Of course, the Blackfeet people were given the barren plains, with little access to water, while the American government set aside the mountains, with their water and mineral-rich areas for settlers.

To pass the time I taught the guys how to play a game called 'Contact' which I'd learned in college leading backcountry trips for the Dartmouth Outing Club. It's a word game that's pretty entertaining and great for passing the time on long hauls. It's funny, it's the first time I've played games on the whole hike, but it really was a lot of fun. Taking a break along the road for some snacks we saw some long-distance bikers ride by and wondered where they were headed. Then, all of a sudden, we saw a figure heading over the hill southbound. Who could it be? As the dark, bearded figure got closer, I realized it was U-turn, the guy I'd hiked into Grand Lake with, near Rocky Mountain National Park.

I whooped and hollered and gave him a big hug. I couldn't believe our paths had crossed again - though I'd hoped they would, as I genuniely enjoyed U-Turn's company. We caught up a bit and he told us he'd flipped up to Glacier and would finish his hike in Yellowstone by October. We wished him well, hoped the weather would hold for him, and pushed on our separate ways.

As we walked in the hot, baking sun, some younger guys pulled over and asked if we wanted some beers, which we gladly took them up on. We talked with them for a bit before pressing on. Shortly thereafter, we saw some crystal clear water in a beaver pond and couldn't resist taking a dip. The water was refreshing, but the mud on the stream bottom was deep and stirred up easily as we walked. Our feet sunk-in to the squishy mud and we all got out quickly after we dunked.

We cranked out the rest of the afternoon, having lost Commando a few hours early. I pushed on ahead of the group, trying to reach the Two Medicine River where we'd agreed to camp. My feet ached, but I just wanted to be done walking. Rafiki was chasing me, but I was moving to fast for anyone to keep up. I wanted to walk alone. Sometimes I need that.

We setup camp under the bridge and Rafiki caught a few trout. I asked if he was going to keep them and realized he had no way to cook them. So, I grabbed one of his catch, cleaned it, and boiled it in my pot. We shared the trout and slept with a full belly, ready to reach East Glacier the next day.