Day 83: Roadwalk into Steamboat Springs

Mileage: 21 miles (1348.5-1369.5)

I woke up at 4:30am and saw stars so I decided to get moving after night of rain. I wrote a quick Facebook post asking if there were any trail angels in Steamboat, and a guy named Austin immediately responded, saying he'd be happy to pick me up at the pass. What a guy! There was a great sunrise, speckling the clouds with shades of pink, orange, and gold. 

As I went to charge my home so I could call Austin later in the day my battery pack shorted out. I was on 4% and it seemed improbable that it would last the few hours I needed to let Austin know when I was an hour from the pass.

I blew it off, angry at the battery that seemed so shoddy, and just walked down the muddy roads. The deep purple lupine was back in droves with the Colorado blue columbine. Mule deer dotted the fields, and also some cows. I pushed myself hard, trying to get to the pass by the time I told Austin, even if couldn't get ahold of him.

I cut a corner across a meadow to avoid a hill but then almost had to ford the at least waist deep Grizzly Creek - luckily found a beaver dam and crossed on top of that. I was happy to get on the highway and off the private property which was signed prominently off the paved road.

My phone died when I tried call Austin and I thought I was done for and would have to hitch into town. But, I tried turning it on a few hours later and it worked! I don't understand iPhone battery, but we arranged for the pickup around 11am.

I walked the paved roads all the way to highway 40, seeing a tent along the way, with muddy prints leading to the site. I wondered which CDT hikers these were....I'd followed their prints for miles, but had no idea who it was. I wasn't planning on waking them up either.

At Muddy Pass I met Austin and his adorable golden retriever puppy, River. We hopped in his pickup and River chewed on my hand the whole way into town.

After we stopped by his house and I took a shower we grabbed some food, Iresupplied, and sat on the couch while Austin took a nap. Another hiker, Delightful, also stayed at his house that night and brought some beers. We ordered a pizza and fell asleep watching "Dangerous Fish Monsters" or something like that.

Day 82: Parkview Mountain and beginning the descent to Steamboat

Mileage: 27 miles (1321.5-1348.5)

I got up around 6:30 and my tent was dry for first time in ages - no dew, condensation or precipitation - now that's a good night! We started the morning with a 1,500' climb up Parkview Mtn. Mountain Spice had begun about 30 minutes before I had. After about 45 minutes of ascending I saw her silhouette against the mountain, trudging up a switchback. I followed her up all the way to the old fire lookout cabin on top at 12,200', probably the highest point left on my journey northwards.

We took shelter and had a snack in the cabin and followed the suit of CDT hikers from years past and signed our trail names inside the tower. I had considered trying to make it here last night and I'm sure glad I didn't as the inside was littered with rodent feces. After a brief false start down the most obvious trail down the mountain, we corrected and followed an almost non-existent trail marked by a cairn or two down the northwest ridge. We each hiked our own pace, Mtn. Spice took the loose rocks and steep stope more slowly, though I was also feeling it on my feet. My shoes were too tight over the tops of my arches and I couldn't find the right balance of snugness and not causing my feet pain with every step. I worried about the next 17 days, where I'd need to average 29 miles per day to meet my dad in Jackson Hole. It was good to have a fire under my butt, but I didn't want to injure myself with overuse trying to get there in time.

I stopped at the only water source for the next 10 miles and took a break. Mtn. Spice wasn't too far behind and we hung out for a bit and then began the next ascent. There'd be a lot of up and down today, I knew that, but it was all doable - just had to avoid the storms when they came, as I was sure they would examining the clouds.

I stopped to go to the bathroom and take off my long pants and once again saw Mtn Spice. I let her pass as I had a snack, sure I'd see her soon. The jagged peaks of Rocky Mountain National park had begun to give way to gentler green rolling hills, nearly all below 12,000 ft. It was a different kind of beauty, but very welcome after so much time above treeline.

I came to Troublesome Pass and almost didn't notice Mtn Spice sitting there looking at her maps. I was engrossed in a This American Life podcast about Kim Jong-Il and how he'd kidnapped famous celebrities so he could make movies with them - I know, insane! (and probably many of you have already heard it...looking at you Todd)

There were some storm clouds gathering to the Southeast and Mtn. Spice was debating whether to keep going. I needed to press on if I was going to make Steamboat tomorrow so I bid goodbye and headed up the ridge. It was pretty exposed but luckily the rain held off until I was heading down after about seven or eight miles. The drizzle gave way to steady rain, which continued on and off the rest of the day. After navigating a road which was almost non-existent and a few unmarked turns I topped the last ridge of the day at 11,480'. From there to Steamboat I'd be on Forest roads, which was a welcome relief from all the route finding. 

As I headed down the road, I looked back at what I'd hiked - Parkview Mtn looked way far off, though I could still make out the outline of the fire lookout. Following the winds of the road it began to rain again and this time it didn't look like it was going away. I vowed to hike another half hour and managed to eek out a few more miles. I stopped at probably the perfect time as the steady rain turned into a downpour after I got into my tent. Lightning lit up the sky and I heard thunder all around and even right on top of me. I was camped under a sturdy looking Spruce. There were a lot of down trees around so I hoped none picked tonight to fall. Tomorrow I'm in town again - woohoo!

Day 81: North through the Never Summer Wilderness

Mileage: 27.4 miles (1294.1-1321.5)

I got up late, around 7am, having to catch a bus at 8:07 to take me back to the visitor's center, where I finished the loop yesterday. I packed my stuff, which was everywhere, and lined up all the food that I didn't want to carry - I was bummed that the hotel didn't have a hiker box, but there was nothing else I could do but leave it in the room - there's no sense in carrying something I won't eat.

I got coffee and muffins and ran over for a new bottle of water and also bought a bologna and cheese sandwich and hohos at the convenience store - these were two of my favorite foods as a child and I found myself everyday regressing back into my former eating habits. When I thought about it, it made sense - like when I was a kid, my brain is always telling me I'm starving and i also have nothing to check that impulse. The difference is as a kid I didn't know any better and my brain was still developing, whereas now I understand I'm poisoning myself but I'm too hungry and exhausted to exercise any control. The bus driver waited for me yet again and then I talked to Laura for half hour on the bus. It felt like we were in two completely different worlds and it was becoming harder and harder to bridge that gap of imagination - to pretend we were still an integral part of one another's lives when we barely were able to talk on the phone once a week.

I took a cool looking Ley alternate along the divide once I got to park visitor center, which was again a madhouse - literally people must have been insane to spend more than ten minutes inside.

The alternate I took had really stunning views back towards RMNP and all around. The biggest thing I noticed is it was getting flatter to the north as the landscape made its descent to the Red Desert and Wyoming. As I headed up the divide I met a couple from Missouri with vishla, who reminded me of my dog, Cooper, but way skinnier! I missed Coop a lot and often wished he was out here to keep me company, though it really wouldn't make sense in a lot of spots in the desert and griz country.

I talked to my dad and my mom, and then wished my sister a happy birthday down in Honduras. I hadn't seen her for a birthday in quite a few years since she'd moved down there, but it sounded like she had a good time. It was the longest is spoken to her on the phone in ages and it felt really nice and familiar, like home - something I don't often get to feel out here. We talked about our mother and other family members; deriving pleasure from everyone's quirks, knowing we both were just as quirky as the rest. Me, walking from Mexico to Canada and her, living the last few years in Honduras as a social worker.

Once on the crest, I looked back at Rocky Mountain National Park and admired it in all of its beauty. A few kids singing songs scampered down trail, jabbering a mile a minute about trout they'd caught. I just listened and realized how much a missed working with kids - their unbridled excitement was positively contagious and I couldn't suppress a giant grin as I egged them on: "How many did you catch?" "Five!" "How big were they?" "This BIG" holding up their hands. Their mom was anxious to get 'em going again so I said bye and left with a big smile on my face.

It was a little windy up top but really cool. I loved the divide up here, rounded and green, with a precipitous drop on the eastern side. I came off the ridge and back onto CDT after Crystal Mountain. A ton of dirt bikers had been tearing up trail, leaving big ruts full of mud, ruining the tread. There was lots of Moose poop and tracks everywhere. I saw a Moose after crossing the highway near the divide - a big bull with antlers. It just kind of looked at me as all Colorado moose have, mostly disinterested. I started the hike up towards Parkview Mtn at 12,200 and found place to camp next to Mtn Spice, whose orange tent I stumbled upon.

We caught up on each other's hikes as I made myself dinner and said goodnight.

Day 80: Rocky Mountain National Park Loop

Mileage: 26.2 miles (1267.9-1294.1)

I got up around 6:00am and started around 6:30am from the trailhead with only my orange dry bag looped onto my belt, which was slung around my shoulder. I had water and a bit of food. I felt so light and free without my pack.

I was doing the Rocky Mountain National Park loop, which would allow me to begin and end in Grand Lake, getting to take advantage of having a hot meal and a bed two nights in a row. It was part of the official CDT but most hikers don't do it as there's a shortcut that cuts it out. But I figured I'm only a few miles from the park so why not enjoy it. 

The walk started out pretty flat along a sandy jeep road through some meadows and up through a river valley. It gently ascended past horse camps and people camps, all of which were by wilderness permit only. I couldn't have camped legally in the park if I'd wanted to. It was too crowded for me anyways. 

It was a beautiful cloudless day as I wound my way up the switchbacks and into the high country. Waterfalls rushed alongside the trail, some tall and steep, while others were more like oil slicks running on flatter, nearly horizontal rocks. As I skipped along I met a group of three women and a man a couple hundred feet below treeline. They were pretty amazed I'd walked from Mexico and that I was doing the loop in a half day, while most (including them) were doing it in three or four, with fully loaded packs. Partly because they thought I looked hungry and partly because they were eager to lighten their load, they gave me some snacks which I started eating immediately.

Once I topped the ridge there were some pretty awesome 360 degree views, and though it was similar to other parts of my walk, I understood why it was a National Park. To my south and east I saw Long's Peak, RMNP's only 14'er jutting out abruptly from the rock. 

As I started jogging along the ridge and heading down from Ptarmigan point I met a guy who hiked the Appalachian Traul and his girlfriend, and they gave me a snickers and honey stinger waffle and we hung out for a bit on top of the ridge. We enjoyed bathing in the sunlight until a few passing clouds drizzled on us and we decided to go our separate ways. I was struck by how easy it was to connect with another thru-hiker, someone who despite the distance of time and geography just understood exactly what I was doing.

As I descended quickly I noticed a herd of at least 100 elk in a high meadow to the west. I passed lots of folks with big packs who all asked me what the hell I was doing - most people up there were taking 3-4 days what I'd do in 8 hours. 

The trail was really gentle on way down, not even having switchbacks as it slowly descended back to the valley below. I ran a lot of the way down, enjoying the high of being so weightless. Coming down even further I saw a Bull Moose 30 feet away in Big Meadow. He barely noticed me as he continued grazing, his huge spread of antlers somehow not getting in his way. There was tons of water and I even dunked my head in a cold, rushing stream to cool off. The trail continued following Big Meadow until it veered off into woods towards the visitors cente.

After I gawked at the circus inside, complete with crying babies, raucous kids, and entitled sounding grown-ups I got the heck out of there to the comparative peace of the parking lot. Immediately after I walked out a bus pulled up and what do you know it was headed back to Grand Lake! I had no money but the driver let me get the $3 from my room, $2 of which I had to borrow from U-turn when I realized I was short on cash.

We ate Mexican for dinner again and afterwards I could barely walk. I fell asleep watching Risky Business, Tom Cruise's first big movie, feeling like my day was just a wonderfully pleasant dream, flitting through my mind.

Day 79: Hiking into Grand Lake

Mileage: 18.1 miles (1249.8-1267.9)

We woke up at 4am. It has rained all night but finally stopped so we figured we misewell pack up while we could. We headed down 1,000 ft to start off day down to Monarch Lake and a campground. It was the lowest elevation we'd been in a long time and could feel it palpably in the thick, moist air. A blue heron soared over head and trout popped their heads up in the lake, searching flies.

As we admired the serene, glass-like lake a small, Red fox walked right up to us  and stopped a few feet away. He looked at us, as if to say, "can you guys stop blocking the trail?" Meanwhile, my jaw was so far dropped that I didn't even think to take a picture with the phone that was still in my hand. Perhaps the act of taking the picture would have sucked the magic from the moment, as its apt to do. But I still felt silly that I missed the photo. As we headed down past a few campgrounds, an older fella outside his RV started chatting with us. Before we could stop him he bolted into his truck and grabbed us cinnamon rolls he'd gotten from Sam's Club.  I was running low on any food I wanted to eat, so I wolfed mine down. He saw that and brought us each two more. We said goodbye and I refilled some water at the campground and got rid of my trash in one the bear-proof dumpsters.

Winding our way out of the campground, the trail was extremely overgrown and wet from the previous night's rain. There was so much dew and water on the grasses, U-turn said that he was wetter than when it'd been raining on us all day. And he was right. This was basically how the trail was all the way to Grand Lake, which kinda sucked - but apparently it could have been worse as a ton of blowdowns had just been cleared by the Forest Service and volunteers not long ago. Before the trail was basically impassable, so getting wet shouldn't have been a big deal.

We talked about gators and cattle farming and the way the USDA classifies beef. It was interesting to hear him tell me about something so foreign to me, despite growing up in the heart of beef country in Nebraska. Walking along Lake Granby we met a couple with a beautiful black dog that looked like a bear when I first walked up.

They gave us coffee and little sweets and we chatted with them for a bit and then headed off again towards town. Almost immediately after leaving them we entered Rocky Mountain National Park - it was part of the park's low country and was full of meadows and bogs - the trail didn't improve too much until we were just a mile or two from the parking lot.

We made it to town and went straight to the post office before it closed at 4pm and got our stuff we needed. We stopped at a Mexican joint for lunch and I got a combination platter. It was awesomely huge and delicious. Though you could have probably dipped a piece of dog crap in butter and I would have thought it tasted good if you gave me some ketchup. After I finished I went up to the hostel to grab my resupply package - while I was doing that U-Turn covered the meal which was really generous of him. I enjoyed his company quite a bit.

The Shadowcliff hostel, where I grabbed my package was unfortunately totally booked, but my package was still there, including new gaiters! I had lost one of mine awhile back so it was great to have two again.

We found a hotel on Main Street which was a bit expensive for me, but U-Turn was gracious and offered to cover most of the room since he was going to get a room regardless. I bought him beers and dinner that night at the BBQ place in town, where we each got a rack of ribs - which were so enormous I couldn't finish. One of the first times I couldn't finish a meal on trail. I also felt a little ill from the glut of salt and fat. I went to bed early in the big, comfy bed.

Day 78: Up James Peak and through Indian Peaks Wilderness

Mileage: 28.1 miles (1221.7-1249.8)

I woke up at 2am and saw stars. I fell back asleep for an hour and decided when I saw stars again at 3am that I'd pack up my tent and take advantage of the nice weather, albeit in the middle of the night.

The four plus miles up 3,000 ft felt long. Very long. It was frigid with the never-ceasing wind above treeline. I wore every piece of clothing I had, including my new rain pants, and even while moving it was tough to stay warm. There were beautiful views as I got higher, lakes of clouds beneath me 360 degrees around, like I was on an island in the sky. As I hiked along the ridge up towards James Peak I looked down at the spectacular glacial lakes to the east of the divide. They were colored bright blue of fresh ice melt I've only seen up high. Crossing over James Peak the winds howled and I headed down after a quick selfie.

As I descended it started to drizzle a bit. I thought, not again! But as I looked up I saw a perfect rainbow had formed in the valley below over Winter Park. I guess the rain was good for something. The vibrant colors were truly brilliant.

As I walked up and down the gentle, grassy divide, a dense fog passed through. Navigating one cairn to the next was challenging but kind of fun. Then I saw black figure on the road, who I watched for a mile or two. It turned out to be an older fella with a grizzled beard. I took a break at Rollins Pass and he kept going. There used to be a hotel and restaurant at the pass, but after it burned to the ground a few times, it was shut down for good. Heading into the Indian Peaks wilderness I caught up with the man I saw on the road a mile or two later and we hiked together rest of day. His name was U-Turn and he'd started his hike in mid-March, taking his time along the way.

I slowed my pace a bit, but enjoyed walking with someone else so I didn't mind. We talked about our lives and everything from backpacking, to cattle

ranching, and gator hunting. He was from Florida and never hiked really before doing this trail, which I found amazing. He was a shorter, stout fella, who said he wasn't a fast hiker, but he kept up just fine.

We took a break to dry out stuff and get water, then again at the ranger cabin, which had clean toilets with paper and hand sanitizer, what a treat!

Besides some drops here and there we stayed dry all day, which was incredible! It made for some great walking. And a great day. Into Grand Lake tomorrow, woohoo!

Day 77: Get me out of Winter Park!

Mileage: 10 miles (1211.7-1221.7)

Yuck. A day where it pretty much  rained the whole day. From when I walked out of the hotel to when I was setting up my tent at night. From when I walked out of  the coffee shop, to when I got out of the car at Berthoud Pass. Drizzle. Rain. Downpour. Drizzle, Rain, Downpour. Thunderclap, boom, the rain doesn't stop.

It hasn't stopped for a month and it's taking it's toll on me a bit. When you're soggy at all times and your tent is always wet and you have to be incredibly careful with your down sleeping bag and jacket it makes everything really hard. Every little thing I do, from setting up my tent to opening my backpack for a snack, I have to be careful and it's exhausting. It's grey a lot. And the ridges are dangerous because there's always a chance of lightning. You have to plan your days to be on the ridges at the right time, but often the time you think will be right isn't. If this sounds like complaining, it isn't - or maybe it is - but it's just the reality of everyday life right now.

Of course, when it does stop for moments and the mountains peak out, I guess I appreciate it more. And, of course, the wildflowers are incredible because of the rain. "Better than I've ever seen," according to some Coloradans I've talked to. Yet, sometimes it's hard to look on the bright side when all you see is grey.

To start the morning I learned the hotel wasn't serving breakfast, I had to check out in 45 minutes, and there was no shuttle to downtown Winter Park, which was where all the food and other town services were. The front desk guy said I could cross the highway to the Resort and might find something open there.

I Yelped it and found a cafe not far. I checked out before I left, not wanting to have to find my way back there. Somehow I spent $16 on a burrito and a cinnamon roll, another reason I wanted to go to town. But it was raining, and the tourists weren't obliging to hitchhikers. The warm cinnamon roll was really good so I'm going to try and forget the money.

I talked to Laura for a bit at the cafe but the signal was terrible and I dropped the call twice. It's been nearly impossible to stay in touch with each of us in remote areas for days at a time and that has also taken it's toll on me. Of course, the second I went to leave the cafe it began to rain. Laura suggested I get rain pants to make my life better and I thought that was a good idea.

I went to the Columbia store at the resort and they didn't have any. As I was asking the clerk about other used gear shops and how to get to them (I would have to walk two miles along the busy highway), a nice older man with his wife and grandson offered me a ride. It turned out he was a Nebraskan (thank you Nebraska) from a small town south of Lincoln. Him and his wife had taught at the public high school together for 30 years before retiring, taking kids from the school on trips to Yellowstone and skiing in Colorado. He took me downtown and I gave him my sincere thanks. Almost every single day I have reason to be thankful for the kindness of others - though I sometimes wish there were more people like this man, I'm happy there are folks like him out there.

The first consignment shop I went into I found a pair of rain pants (Columbia, coincidentally) for $16, and they even fit me perfectly. I got them and then tried hitching back towards the Resort and Berthoud Pass to get back on trail. It was really raining now and people hate picking up hitchhikers in the rain. It's astronomically easier on a clear, sunny day to get a ride, which is ironic because you need the ride so much more when it's pouring out. Finally, I asked a guy in a hotel parking lot for a ride and he obliged about half way to where he had to turn off. I walked most of the rest of the way to the resort before another guy picked me up for the last quarter mile. I rode the gondola to the upper Resort where the last road turned off before Berthoud Pass - I figured this was the best place to hitch since everyone headed my way would be going past where I needed to go.

It was still raining and cars sped by splashing water on me as they went - Texans, Californians, Coloradans - no one wanted to stop. I wondered if I had skis if someone would have pulled over. Finally, a woman with her mother and son, waved over to me to hop in. I thanked them profusely and enjoyed the heat on the 14 miles up to the pass. 

Once on top I jumped in the warming hut hoping the rain would subside. It did eventually get down to a drizzle and I figured it was now or never. I walked uphill to top Mt Flora at 13,100 ft. The winds howled and rain spit sideways as I ascended the ridge. Finally, I got to the top and it actually cleared up a tiny bit for a few minutes - I even saw a small patch of blue between the clouds. I descended into James Peak Wilderness all the way to 10,100 ft. The trail was very faint at times, and I had to look for flat rocks that were put next to each other and then faint paths through the grass and dirt. It switchbacked endlessly until I got down to the valley. 

Once I started climbing again it almost immediately started to rain and then pour. It was nearly six so I figured it was time to setup camp, rather than get soaked. I ate my half-cooked Mac n' cheese that I'd made in the rain, only saved by the flaming hot Cheetos I added on top. I wrote and will go to sleep early, hopefully starting early before the rain tomorrow to get over the final 13,000 ft peak of the trail and begin the descent to Rocky Mountain National park.