Mileage: 27 miles (1321.5-1348.5)
I got up around 6:30 and my tent was dry for first time in ages - no dew, condensation or precipitation - now that's a good night! We started the morning with a 1,500' climb up Parkview Mtn. Mountain Spice had begun about 30 minutes before I had. After about 45 minutes of ascending I saw her silhouette against the mountain, trudging up a switchback. I followed her up all the way to the old fire lookout cabin on top at 12,200', probably the highest point left on my journey northwards.
We took shelter and had a snack in the cabin and followed the suit of CDT hikers from years past and signed our trail names inside the tower. I had considered trying to make it here last night and I'm sure glad I didn't as the inside was littered with rodent feces. After a brief false start down the most obvious trail down the mountain, we corrected and followed an almost non-existent trail marked by a cairn or two down the northwest ridge. We each hiked our own pace, Mtn. Spice took the loose rocks and steep stope more slowly, though I was also feeling it on my feet. My shoes were too tight over the tops of my arches and I couldn't find the right balance of snugness and not causing my feet pain with every step. I worried about the next 17 days, where I'd need to average 29 miles per day to meet my dad in Jackson Hole. It was good to have a fire under my butt, but I didn't want to injure myself with overuse trying to get there in time.
I stopped at the only water source for the next 10 miles and took a break. Mtn. Spice wasn't too far behind and we hung out for a bit and then began the next ascent. There'd be a lot of up and down today, I knew that, but it was all doable - just had to avoid the storms when they came, as I was sure they would examining the clouds.
I stopped to go to the bathroom and take off my long pants and once again saw Mtn Spice. I let her pass as I had a snack, sure I'd see her soon. The jagged peaks of Rocky Mountain National park had begun to give way to gentler green rolling hills, nearly all below 12,000 ft. It was a different kind of beauty, but very welcome after so much time above treeline.
I came to Troublesome Pass and almost didn't notice Mtn Spice sitting there looking at her maps. I was engrossed in a This American Life podcast about Kim Jong-Il and how he'd kidnapped famous celebrities so he could make movies with them - I know, insane! (and probably many of you have already heard it...looking at you Todd)
There were some storm clouds gathering to the Southeast and Mtn. Spice was debating whether to keep going. I needed to press on if I was going to make Steamboat tomorrow so I bid goodbye and headed up the ridge. It was pretty exposed but luckily the rain held off until I was heading down after about seven or eight miles. The drizzle gave way to steady rain, which continued on and off the rest of the day. After navigating a road which was almost non-existent and a few unmarked turns I topped the last ridge of the day at 11,480'. From there to Steamboat I'd be on Forest roads, which was a welcome relief from all the route finding.
As I headed down the road, I looked back at what I'd hiked - Parkview Mtn looked way far off, though I could still make out the outline of the fire lookout. Following the winds of the road it began to rain again and this time it didn't look like it was going away. I vowed to hike another half hour and managed to eek out a few more miles. I stopped at probably the perfect time as the steady rain turned into a downpour after I got into my tent. Lightning lit up the sky and I heard thunder all around and even right on top of me. I was camped under a sturdy looking Spruce. There were a lot of down trees around so I hoped none picked tonight to fall. Tomorrow I'm in town again - woohoo!
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