Day 93: On through Atlantic and South Pass City

Mileage: 25.9 miles (1626.2-1652.1)

I woke up a little before 4am with the stars shining bright above me. The first light of dawn was just starting to brighten up the eastern horizon. As I walked shooting stars danced above me: one, two, three. I made a wish for health and then love. I tilted my head back towards the night sky, still deep and dark above me, noticing the Milky Way and the myriad of constellations I couldn't begin to name.

One I did know, the Big Dipper, shined brightly to north, lower and bigger than I'd ever seen it. Slowly, the stars melted back into the sky like snowflakes on a warm winter day. To the East, the sky was lightening, first with the soft orange which gave way to bright, deep blue. A cluster of dark, scattered clouds all had their bottoms frosted with pink and gold light. Together, the clouds resembled a Phoenix, the mythic bird which rises from its own ashes after it dies, signaling renewal and rebirth of a new day and new chapter for my hike.

Tomorrow, I'd leave the Red Desert behind and enter the Wind River Range, one of the most remote and spectacular mountain ranges in the continental U.S. Grizzlies and wolves still roamed there, showing it still has a wild and rugged spirit that most of our other natural places had lost to the vices of humanity: agriculture, mining, industrial tourism, and the like. 

Male antelope huffed and puffed at me as I walked by, defending their territory. I tried to communicate I was only passing through, but it always seemed to be lost in translation as the agile creatures would inevitably hop off, afraid of my humanity.

I got into Atlantic City 20 minutes before restaurant opened. I met some Great Divide bikers from Vermont and other places and ate a normal sized breakfast burrito that was described to me as "huge." To compensate I then had pancakes and eggs and sausage with a few cups of coffee. I bought some extra supplies, used the Internet and then headed to South Pass to grab my package.

I passed by a cool old mine, Cass Mill on the way and read about the history of the place on signs. The whole town of South Pass City was just as it was back during the 1860's and '70's during the gold rush here: an I ld saloon, hotels, pharmacy, etc, all restored with artifacts inside. A nice lady at the souvenir shop gave me my packages and I also bought a cream soda and a Klondike bar (what would you do for a...)

I got an awesome care package from a group of friends back home and nearly cried reading all their notes. It would have been a happy cry, but I didn't quite realize how much I missed them all until I got their notes. Of course, they also sent food, which was a great addition to my lean resupply (though, now my bag is like a behemoth!)

It was hilarious because I read all these nice notes they sent and pictures they drew - mostly stick figures, though some of them can really draw - but anyways, I was looking at all these sweet notes and then I opened one that said, "FUCK YOU, DAN!" Which was so completely unexpected that I laughed out loud for a good while. Thanks y'all if you're reading, it definitely brightened my day!!

I headed out from South Pass reluctantly into the hot sun and driving headwind around 3:30pm. The mountains were getting closer - I was entering the foothills of the Wind River Range. Trees and water all of a sudden were more plentiful and the gentle divide started looking a bit more craggy again. 

I stopped around 8pm, my feet ached from switching back to a new pair of shoes (I ditched Shopko shoes), but I think they'll be better in the long run. Very tired and ready to sleep.